Want cheek bones higher than Kim Kardashians? Or better yet, want to get rid of those dark under-eye circles? Even if you just simply wish for a petite-looking nose, there is a quick and surgery-free solution. You can always create illusion with makeup.
I’m going to share the tricks of the trade to getting high cheek bones, a defined jawline, slim neck, petite nose and even fuller lips. I mean, Kim doesn’t wake up looking like this. Get real.
So here is a Before of everything I will teach you about Facial Contouring. It doesn’t start out very pretty, but you will be extremely happy with the end result.
I typically use facial contouring when I’m out at a special event, a night out with my girls, or date nights. Sometimes I find it a little dramatic for the day-time, but if you have a light hand, you can make it work.
Lets bust out the Contouring Diagram, so you can get a better look and create the effortless look:
First: Create an even base
I personally like to start with an even-looking complexion. I’ll just quickly apply a base of BB Cream all over my face, from forehead to under the chin. I like Garnier’s BB Cream, the oil-free formula that fights shine & oil throughout the day.
This will create an even-looking skin, minus the blemishes and imperfections. The most important part of laying down a layer of BB Cream is to protect your skin.
This has a sunscreen to obviously protect the skin from the sun’s harmful rays, but also prevents wrinkles from forming as we age (I know that’s all we young’ns care about).
You can use a blending or foundation blush to blend the BB Cream into your face. I have recently become a fan of the Beauty Blending Sponge.I recommend that everyone go get one.It keeps you from using your hands to blend makeup and doesn’t leave any streaks that brushes can possibly leave.
To use the Beauty Blending Sponge: Put drops of BB Cream around your face (forehead, cheeks, nose & chin). Just wet the sponge, squeeze the excess water out and hold the sponge between your fingers. Then, lightly pat and dab the spots of BB Cream into your face. Blend evenly to get all-over coverage. The end result should be radiant and natural-looking skin.
First Step: Contouring
Now you can use your foundation to define the forehead, cheekbones & jawline. Make sure to get a foundation palate or foundation stick that is 1-2 shades darker than your shade of skin. Trace the foundation skin around your forehead, just follow right under the hair-line all the way to the temples.
Then draw the foundation under your cheek bones from right under the apples of your cheeks all the way out the hair-line. I find it easier to find the natural line to draw by making a fish face. If you do this & look in the mirror, your face will naturally create the line under your cheek bones that you will trace with your foundation stick.
Don’t forget to trace the sides of your nose from your nostrils up to eye-level. This is what will help create the effect of a slimmer nose.
Lastly, draw the foundation around and under your jawline, from just under your ears where the jawline starts, to the tip of your chin.
*I’ve tried out a few foundations for contouring and I found that a foundation stick works best for contouring. I like Maybelline’s Fit Me Foundation stick because it’s affordable and comes in a variety of shades (even for us medium-darker skin tones).
Second Step: Highlighting
Highlighting will create an even more dramatic look against the contouring and defining you have created with the foundation. We will highlight the center of your forehead, the bridge of the nose, the under-eye area, chin and cupid’s bow.
I use two different tools for highlighting: a concealor (1-2 shades lighter than your skin tone) or highlighting cream (there are highlighting liquid, stick and palate formulas).
The highlighter that works best for me and last all day long is Benefit’s Watts Up. It lasts forever! It’s easy to draw on and fool proof.
The next form of highlighter that I use, particularly on the under eye area, the center of my forehead and the center of my chin, is Lancôme’s Concealor (in the shade: Dore). This concealor is costly, but completely gets rid of those under-eye dark circles and has a light-reflecting formula.
Ok, so back to the whole highlighting thing. Now that you have your tools, grab your concealor and dap dots of it around the under-eye area. Dot the concealor from the inner corner of your eyes, directly under your eye and out to the outer corner of your eyes. I like to create 4-5 dots in the under eye area. That is usually more than enough coverage.
Next, Dot the concealor in the center of your forehead. Just create a square-like area of coverage. (I know you’re starting to look like a tribal warrior right now with all the different shades of makeup on, but be patient, it will pay off).
Lastly, with the concealor, just do 2-3 dots on the center of your chin. I add it sparingly here, since it’s such a small area of the face.
*Now, take your highlighting cream (stick or liquid formula) and draw a line down the bridge (center) of your nose. Use the highlighter to create a full-looking lips. Draw the highlighter on your cupid’s bow– this is the area directly under the center-bottom of your nose where your nostrils meet. Draw from the bottom of your nose to the top of your lips where that little triangle forms. (aka. your cupid’s bow).
If you want to get fancy, you can dab a bit of the highlighting cream on the inner corner of your eyes (around where the tear ducts are).
Your face should look something like the example’s above. It won’t be exactly similar, for we all have different facial structures and shapes. After all of that work, we are so close to seeing our beautifully contoured work of art.
Now that you have all of your highlighters and contouring in place, you will blend.
Last Step: Blend it all in
Grab your tool of choice: Brush or Beauty sponge. I prefer the Beauty Blending sponge. If you choose to use the sponge, don’t forget to wet it and squeeze out the excess water before blending away.
I recommend blending the under-eye area out first, then the forehead and chin area. Then I can get all of the concealor blending out of the way and can move on the other dark areas or highlighted areas.
So either brush, or blend out in the direction of each line (from the inner point of your face to the outer sections of your face). So for example, if your starting with blending your under-eye area first, start dabbing or brushing from the inner eye corners, following the under eye out to the temple.
After your done with blending out the concealor and highlighted areas, you can continue on and blend out the areas where you placed the dark foundation on.
If all else fails, blend with your brush and sponge until you look like this:
Blend everything out until you look like the Kim K. on the right side above. Your concealor, foundation and highlighter should be smoothed out.
Lastly: If you’re dramatic like me
Feel free to add a baked powder bronzer over the areas where you have blended out the *dark foundation. By brushing the powder over these areas, you add greater definition, while insuring that your foundation stays in place (almost like a glue).
I like to use Beach Bunny Bronzers because they have a silk-like quality that NEVER leaves streaks. I also love the subtle pieces of glitter in the bronzer. Those give you the effect of a natural glow.
Hope you enjoyed the Facial Contouring tutorial. More contouring tutorials to come soon! I always find the Youtube contouring makeup tutorials helpful, especially if this is your first time trying it out.